Getting Started With a Sculpting Armature
These are my go-to steps for creating a wire and aluminum or tinfoil armature for sculpting my own model horses. These steps work will with both epoxy putty clays and polymer clays.
This particular tutorial will give you some links to important reference material (although be sure to gather more yourself, particularly real horse photos and videos related to the horse you want to sculpt) and the basics of starting an armature for your very first sculpture. Finally, the steps for this process are designed with realistic sculpture in mind, and if your goal is to create an abstract or stylized horse, feel free to deviate as needed. In that case, think of these steps as a springboard to your creative journey.
This particular tutorial will give you some links to important reference material (although be sure to gather more yourself, particularly real horse photos and videos related to the horse you want to sculpt) and the basics of starting an armature for your very first sculpture. Finally, the steps for this process are designed with realistic sculpture in mind, and if your goal is to create an abstract or stylized horse, feel free to deviate as needed. In that case, think of these steps as a springboard to your creative journey.
Tools and Supplies
- Reference
- Steel Wire
- A thicker wire for the spine and neck (for stablemates, try 12 gauge and 9 gage or thicker for larger scales)
- A thinner wire for legs (for stablemates, try 16 gauge, and 9-12 gauge for larger scales)
- If you are unable to find steel, sometimes copper wire is strong enough (especially for the thicker wires) but try to avoid softer metals like aluminum as they don’t hold the weight of epoxy well
- Aluminum Foil
- Tape
- Cyanoacrylate Glue (aka Super Glue, Krazy Glue, etc)
- Baking Soda and Bowl
- Scissors and Marker Pen
Step 1: Creating the Vertebrae Wire
The teal line demonstrates how to bend your wire to align with bony landmarks and bends in the vertebrae anatomy, starting with the head and ending at the tail.
Use your thickest gauge wire for this step to offer the most stability, as this wire will bear great weight in clay or epoxy.
Use your thickest gauge wire for this step to offer the most stability, as this wire will bear great weight in clay or epoxy.
Step 2: The Leg Armatures
The teal lines show you how you should bend your leg wires to line up with bony landmarks and joints. While you’re at it, mark the joint areas with a marker onto your wire for reference later.
Notice the difference between design options one and two. One is the simplest and easiest to construct. Option two better replicates how horse legs move in that joint area, so design option two is easier to pose accurately later.
Notice the difference between design options one and two. One is the simplest and easiest to construct. Option two better replicates how horse legs move in that joint area, so design option two is easier to pose accurately later.
Step 3: Establishing the Main Mass
Crumple your aluminum foil and squish it onto and around the wire, using more foil cut into strips to wrap the whole thing in place. I usually start with the ribcage mass, as it helps to establish a reference point for the smaller mass in between the shoulders and the mass in between the hindquarters. Try to crumple and squish out as much air as possible to create a solid mass.
Remember, as you add bulk to your sculpt, start with the profile (the sides) to create the silhouette, then add bulk to give the right forms to the front and rear-views of your sculpture.
Remember, as you add bulk to your sculpt, start with the profile (the sides) to create the silhouette, then add bulk to give the right forms to the front and rear-views of your sculpture.
Step 4: Attaching the Legs
Using tape as a temporary holding device, position your legs according to the anatomy charts and your real horse reference photos. Since it is just taped on, you can make adjustments easily, and quickly see how all the legs look together.
Once you are happy, cover the upper parts that touch the foil with cyanoacrylate glue and sprinkle with baking soda to cure it fast and strong.
Once that is cured, you can bend the leg wires to match the width of a horse’s real legs.
Once you are happy, cover the upper parts that touch the foil with cyanoacrylate glue and sprinkle with baking soda to cure it fast and strong.
Once that is cured, you can bend the leg wires to match the width of a horse’s real legs.
And there you have it! An armature to start sculpting your very own horse! More tutorials to follow in the future, and check out my video here to see how this armature transformed into a Norwegian Fjord mare!